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Lake Geneva, its fisherman and wildlife
Le Léman  (Lake Geneva)

The Alps and the Jura proudly cross their arms around the largest lake in Western Europe. "It was no fiction if Rousseau chose this place to populate it with his affections" wrote Lord Byron (Clair et placide Léman - 1817). Since the mid-twentieth centuryème  , its two shores have become heavily urbanised, but the vast expanse of water, surrounded by vineyards and snow-capped peaks, is still invitingly gentle and its crescent-shaped curve remains graceful. Everything seems to be designed to multiply the play of light and wind. On the Swiss coast, the terraces of the vineyards of La Côte and Lavaux are superimposed in a staircase bordered by small walls to the top of the slopes.

Lake Geneva ("Le Léman), which is shared by Switzerland and France, covers an area of 580 km2  (length of 72.3 km) and reaches 310 m in depth. It takes an estimated 12 years for its waters to be newed by the Rhône and some forty other rivers.

The fisherman

This series of photographss was taken in the Lavaux area known as the "Haut Lac", and is due to a happy coincidence and the blossoming of a friendship.

 

One day in 2011, P-A Monbaron was returning with his boat to the fishing port of Cully while I was walking along with my camera in hand, watching the water birds. We exchanged a few words, the fisherman kindly answered my questions and when I suddenly asked him, without any premeditation, if he would agree for me to board his boat one day and accompagny him, he replied briefly, "Why not tomorrow if you like, I'm leaving at six o'clock". Over the course of a dozen years, this first morning outing was followed by many others in all seasons.

Monbaron invited me to join him in his activities: "You should come along when I'm laying the 'picks' (type of net), that's quite something else!", "Why don't you come to the shed when I'm smoking the féras in herbs?

Monbaron, who had become a friend, said to me one day: "You know, it's not unusual for people to ask to come with me, but on the agreed day at 6am, very few were there!

 

I quickly got to know Monbaron's family circle, discovering his links with the village, understanding and admiring his art of living. Fully focused on his craft, part of the local world while remaining discreet, just a step to the side, open to elsewhere. With a predilection for Cameroon, where his wife Clémentine and his daughters-in-law Christelle and Nadine come from and where he likes to join them. His openness to the world is also reflected in his passion for jazz music and his invaluable collection of vinyl records, which his friends enjoy when playing pétanque in front of his garden shed.

"I'm very attached to my 70-year-old fishing boat, it's my main working tool but it's more than that, it's a bond! "I always loved boats, my father was a fisherman on Lake Geneva. In 1962, when I was fifteen, I started working with him, and I took over the fishery when he died; From the age of 19 to 21, I travelled the seas working on a cargo ship belonging to a Swiss company, and in 1980, a bad year for fishing, I worked for a few months in a shipyard to supplement my income. In fact, I've now spent 60 years working on Lake Geneva with boats! ".

 

The idea of staging our first exhibition of photographs of "fishermen and their environment" in the village of Cully strengthened our ties. The idea was shared at a meeting of the Winegrowers' Association in early 2013, which decided to make its cellar available for the exhibition. The photos were displayed from 25th April to 7th September 2013 in two locations in the village. In the Caveau under the title "Le regard du pêcheur" and in the Pêcherie de Lavaux shop under the title "Filets du Léman".

Wild life

Although the aquafauna of Lake Geneva is highly diverse, it has undergone significant changes over the last twelve years in the Lavaux region. Climate change is certainly a determining factor. For example, the black-headed gulls that are emblematic of Lake Geneva have practically disappeared from the area, while seagulls and cormorants of maritime origin are ever more numerous; overwintering goosander from northern Europe have become rarer; quagga mussels are no longer just invading the pontoons but spreading over the sediments; Arctic char are harder to catch than in the past for professional fishermen using bottom-set nets. Monbaron expresses these changes in his own way: "Over the last few years, I've observed a more pronounced variation in certain fish and bird populations, but I don't know what's in store for us. The weather is more contrasted, the winds are much more violent, and it remains to be seen how we're going to adapt!

The information provided below on fish and birds concerns observations made between 2011 and 2022 and is limited to the small area of Lake Geneva where I sailed with the fisherman.

The fish of Lake Geneva

Lake Geneva is particularly productive, with the tonnage of wild fish caught by Swiss and French professional fishermen reaching almost 620 tonnes in 2022 (info International Fisheries Commission). A Franco-Swiss agreement and its implementing regulations set out the rules for fishing and protecting fish in Lake Geneva.

In 2022, P-A Monbaron was one of 63 licensed professional anglers on the Swiss side of the lake (on 142 km of Swiss banks), out of a total of 117 anglers on the whole lake.

 

Today, 32 species of fish inhabit Lake Geneva, 21 of which are native or acclimatised and 11 introduced deliberately or accidentally (info Musée du Léman).

There are five species most often caught by Monbaron in the Lavaux area (Villette-Cully-Désaley):

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Perch (Perca fluviatilis)

By far the most caught species in Lake Geneva and the most popular on restaurant terraces: accounts for almost 70% of the weight of fish caught by professionals.

Perch in its plate is very appreciated served  "meunière"

Carnivorous fish living in shoals close to the bottom. Size varies between 15 and 40 cm.

Since 2020, on an experimental basis, fishing has been open to professionals all year around, in order to better study the evolution of spawning.

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extraction of perch fillets
Féra (Corégonus sp.)

Second most-fished species: accounts for 25% of the weight of catches.

Tender flesh with a discreet flavour.

From the Whitefish family, introduced from the "palée" or "bondelle" from Lake Neuchâtel. Still falsely known as féra, the latter fish having disappeared from Lake Geneva at the end of the 1940s.

Offshore fish feeding mainly on zooplankton. Measures up to 60 cm.

Fishing open from mid-January to 1st October

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hot smoking of whitefish - féras
Pike (Esox lucius)

The third species caught only represents around 4% by weight of the fish caught.

Appreciated for its tasty flesh, it is often eaten minced.

The largest naturally living fish in Lake Geneva that can live to a very old age.

Carnivorous fish feeding on other species of fish.

The bulk of the fishing is concentrated between May and the beginning of the following spring, carried out with nets close to the shore.

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the piercing gaze of a pike on its prey
Arctic char (Salvelinus alpinus)

Fourth species fished by professionals in Lake Geneva

One of the most prized fish, with tasty pink flesh

From the salmonid family. Small it lives in groups before becoming solitary.

The young feed on larvae, insects and plants; the adult becomes essentially a fish-eater and lives in the open lake, but hunts as far as the coast.

Fished with bottom-set nets mainly in summer.

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Arctic char
Trout (Salmo trutta).

Trout is the fifth most important species fished in Lake Geneva

A carnivorous fish whose flesh becomes salmon-coloured when crustaceans form a large part of its diet. Monbaron calls it "salmon's little cousin".

A fast-swimming predator, it lives in open lake, sometimes at great depths. Likes cool, well-oxygenated water.

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lake trout
The fisherman's pet birds

Birds are the most visible sign of wildlife on Lake Geneva. Although black headed gulls, swans and mallard ducks are well known, few local residents are aware of the great diversity of birds that frequent Lake Geneva throughout the seasons. Ornithologists distinguish between three categories, depending on the type of visit: breeding birds (around fifteen species), migratory birds (visitors crossing Europe stopping off to rest and eat) and wintering birds (up to 35 species choosing the banks as a wintering area for their food resources of mussels and white fish and for the protection afforded to them by the ban on hunting).

 

The size of different species visiting the lake varies greatly from one year to the next. Changes in numbers can be observed due to the "extraordinary mobility of wild birds, which allows them to rapidly integrate changes - favourable or unfavourable - in their environment" (J-M Mitterer).

Since the end of the 2010s, there has been a marked increase in fish-eating species, particularly seagulls and cormorants.

Among the grebes and ducks that have kept company to Monbaron over the dozen or so years covered by this photographic report, seven species were dominant:

Great crested grebe (Podiceps cristatus)

A very common species in Europe's major lakes, including Lake Geneva.

Around 5,000 pairs breed in Switzerland, with around 30,000 wintering individuals.

Feeds on molluscs, small white fish, crustaceans and insects

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♀ & ♂
Little grebe (Tachybaptus rufficollis)

The smallest of the grebes, similar to a duckling, usually lives in hiding.

Around 700 pairs breed in Switzerland, with some 3,000 wintering individuals.

Feeds on insects, molluscs, crustaceans and small fish.

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Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos)

The most common wild duck. 15,000 breeding pairs in Switzerland, joined from autumn to spring by migrants from northern and eastern Europe.

Feeds on both plants and animals (larvae, crustaceans).

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Gadwall (Anas strepera)

In small numbers on Lake Geneva, rare breeder. Winters coming from temperate Eurasia.

Feeds mainly on aquatic plants.

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Red-crested Pochard (Netta rufina)

Numbers rose sharply in the 1990s thanks to better water quality in Lake Geneva; originally from Central Asia, migrates from east to west

Feeds on aquatic plants (characeous algae)

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Tufted duck (aythya fuligula)

Winter guest on Lake Geneva, originally from Eastern Europe, its population is spreading westwards.

This diving duck feeds on algae and is very fond of the zebra and quagga mussels that have recently proliferated in the waters of Lake Geneva.

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Coot (Fulica atra)

Eurasian breeding coot that has spread to Lake Geneva, among other places.

Omnivorous, adapting to available resources: plant food in summer gives way to mussels in the colder seasons

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PhdR - November 2023

Translation kindly checked by Guillaume dR

Sources :

  • J-M Mitterer, le Léman et les oiseaux, Archs Sci. Genève, vol. 51, 1998

  • Birds of the lake, miniguide published by La salamandre, 2016

  • Larids, miniguide published by La salamandre, 2016

  • B. Bruderer, S. Jenni, F. Liechti, Bird migration, Swiss Ornithological Institute, 2006

  • K. Richartz and A. Puchta, 420 species of wild birds in Europe, 2011, www.rossolis.ch

  • M. Burkhardt, C. Marti, F.Tobler, Guide to the birds of Switzerland, 1996, vogelwarte.ch

  • F-A Forel, Monographie sur le Léman, Slatkine Genève, 1969

  • J-C Pedroli, B. Zaug, A. Kichhofer, Atlas de distribution des poissons de Suisse, CSCF, 1991

  • D. Masson, Les poissons du Léman, Slatkine, Geneva 1989

  • Swiss Food Academy, Lake Geneva and its fish, 2020

  • Sauvons le Léman, publications by the Association for the Safeguarding of Lake Geneva

  • Identification sheets for species observed in Lake Geneva, ASL, 2022

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